Family Adventure in Neath Port Talbot: Dramatic Heart of Wales
With a name like Angharad Teleri, it’s safe to say Wales runs in my blood. As it happens though, despite my Welsh roots and living just across the Severn for many years in Bristol, rather than expertly reeling off Welsh place names and idioms in a beautiful sing-song lilt, I’d likely butcher any Welsh pronunciation thrown at me.
My knowledge of Wales is mostly limited to the odd day trip or a Snowdonia weekend away. So when the team at Dramatic Heart of Wales invited us to explore the Neath Port Talbot region, I leapt at the chance to discover what family fun lay just across the estuary.
What we found were wild landscapes, rich heritage, proud communities and plenty of outdoor action.
*Disclaimer: This trip was kindly sponsored by the lovely folks at Dramatic Heart of Wales, who invited us to discover what family adventures await in Neath Port Talbot. While the itinerary may have been planned, the muddy, excited kids, and all opinions are 100% my own.
Exploring the best of Neath Port Talbot with kids
Tucked between the bright lights of Cardiff and the natural wonders of West Wales, Neath Port Talbot is a striking mix of coast and countryside, waterfalls and woodlands, gritty industrial past and local culture. Whether you’re keen on mountain biking, surfing, walking, or hiking this area is bursting with opportunities for family adventures.
It’s also makes a fantastic base for exploring South Wales, from the Brecon Beacons to the Gower Peninsula and beyond.
Where we stayed: Riverside at Afan Valley Escapes
We chose to stay in the Afan Valley, in a cosy, two-bedroom self-catering house aptly named Riverside. True to its name, the home sits right on the banks of the Afan River, with the gentle rush of water audible from the kitchen thanks to river water gushing between the arches of a stone bridge. It’s located in the peaceful village of Glyncorrwg, surrounded by lush green hills, whose peaks were often hidden by grey clouds during our stay, and crisscrossed by walking and cycling trails.
While the house is quite compact and narrow, the small interior has been ingeniously fashioned, albeit a little bit ‘makeshift’ here and there, to create a cosy space for visitors. It was full of little touches that made it ideal for families: board games, a table football setup, and even a projector screen for movie nights.
A prime spot for cycling enthusiasts, inside the house, there are plenty of nods to the biking community and occasionally, the faintest whiff of sweaty cyclist! Parents and cycling enthusiasts alike will appreciate the secure indoor bike storage and laundry facilities – handy if you’re hitting the nearby Afan Forest mountain bike trails, just 200m away.
Upstairs, Bedroom One features three zip-and-link beds – two of which can be combined to create a super-comfy king-size. Bedroom Two offers sturdy, adult-weight purpose-built bunk beds.
South Wales day one: castles, markets and mountain bike trails
It’s no secret that the Welsh are a proud country, and we were reminded of such on arrival at The Colliers Arms in Pontrhydyfen on Friday night.
After getting through the Oasis traffic (who were playing at Cardiff stadium that night), we arrived for a well-deserved pub dinner. Famous faces plastered across the outside wall greeted us, none other than Michael Sheen and Richard Burton, who both hail from these parts (Burton from this very village in fact!).
The charming, memorabilia-stuffed pub in Pontrhydyfen offers classic pub grub, a buzzing Friday night crowd, and drinks at very un-Bristol prices (£3.50 for a double gin and tonic!). Look out for the playful ‘Pontywood’ sign on the hillside – Wales’ answer to Hollywood.
It’s a pub full of character, trinkets and curiosities – our four-year-old was endlessly entertained, regularly checking to see if the spaniel statue under the chair had moved, and delighting in the strange and wonderful collection of creatures spotted on the opposite riverbank.
Neath
The next day brought torrential rain, so we headed to Neath to explore.
Neath Town Centre is an interesting place. A town of juxtapositions that can jar and surprise at the same time: historic ruins sit next to supermarkets, and while some areas show their age, look closely and there are gems too.
Queen Street Gallery in Neath is a lovely gallery showcasing work from local artists, The Gwyn Hall in Neath shows the latest films, and we also found a bubble tea shop, Boobo Tea, much to my two tween daughters’ delight.
Our main destination was Neath Indoor Market. Housed in a building dating from 1837, it’s an historic market filled with local vendors. For those familiar with Bristol’s St Nick’s Market, it has a similar vibe, although, slightly less polished, perhaps.
While there was a great butcher, t-shirt printing shop, a greengrocer and florist, it also came with its fair share of tat and sadly, some of the more interesting-looking vendors had shut down.
Gearing up for adventure in the Afan Valley
As the rain cleared, we made our way to Glyncorrwg Mountain Bike Centre, a hub for riders exploring Afan Forest Park. You’ll find bike hire, a campsite suitable for tents, caravans and motorhomes with electric hook up, showers, a café, and trails to suit all abilities, including families. The centre is the starting point for Blade, Whites Level and W2 mountain bike trails, and the Rheilffordd cycleway (Sustrans Route 887).
Reluctant to brave the inevitable mud-splattering that a bike ride in the weather conditions would bring, we opted for lunch at Base Café, a haven for outdoorsy folks coming in off the trails and a great stop for families. Think generous portions of nuggets, pancakes, chicken wraps and the like, excellent coffee, and a playground with a wooded valley backdrop. I was also quite excited to find matcha on the menu – not something I was expecting in rural Wales.
The cafe has plenty of indoor seating and some al fresco tables. In warm weather I’d definitely take to the outside area and let the kids loose in the play area!
We also popped into the pint-sized South Wales Miners’ Museum, a small but fascinating place next door to the cafe, run by volunteers. This was the first mining museum in Wales, offering a glimpse into the history of the South Wales coalfields, the industrial heritage of the Afan Valley and the hardships endured by mining families. Sobering and insightful.
We had a guide lead us around, which helped us get the most out of the museum, though with three kids in tow, on our own, we’d have probably moved a bit faster.
Given the great-looking trails, we decided to brave the drizzle and do the Old Parish Road Walk, starting at the Afan Forest Park Visitor Centre. It’s a gentle 1.2-mile loop through peaceful woodland, with lovely valley views and well-marked paths – ideal for little legs.
By late afternoon, we were fairly worn out and still full from lunch, so we headed back to our cottage for a cosy evening in, recharging before the next day’s adventures.
Day two: exploring Margam Country Park
If we’d had more time, and better weather, I would’ve loved to visit Aberavon Seafront. Just north of Port Talbot, this 3-mile-long stretch of sandy beach features an Aqua splash zone, mini-golf, and, according to reliable recommendations, Franco’s for some fish and chips! As it was, though, we had a full day of family fun planned at Margam Country Park.
Set within 1,000 acres of stunning countryside, Margam Country Park is home to the impressive 19th-century Tudor-Gothic Margam Castle, once the residence of the Talbot family. The park also boasts the beautifully-restored 18th-century Orangery, the atmospheric ruins of the 12th-century Margam Abbey and ruins, a variety of walking trails, adventure playgrounds, a farm trail, fairy houses resident deer, and even a miniature train.
For thrill-seekers, it’s also the site of the only Go Ape! Treetop Challenge in Wales (for children aged 10+), featuring the UK’s largest Tarzan Swing, complete with a 20ft freefall and zip wires up to 180m. Margam Park Adventure also offers bushcraft, canoeing, archery, mountain biking, stand-up paddleboarding and more.
As for us, we had booked go-kart hire from Margam Park Adventure. With no ‘dino karts’ (which seat up to four) available, I took a double with our four-year-old while the other three each had a single. The karts were a big hit – exploring the park on wheels was a really fun way to spend an hour and my kids loved it.
There are also mini go-karts for younger children, and after our four-year-old had a go, he was hooked. I’m pretty sure he could have managed the route on his own – next time!
We spent the rest of the afternoon enjoying snacks from Charlotte’s Pantry, a couple of rides on the miniature train (payable), time in the playground, and a wander through the gardens to see the fairy houses. If you’re going during summer holidays – look out for special themed days and festivals (Paw Patrol, Cbeebies Duggee were making appearances in July).
Where to eat in Neath Port Talbot
When it comes to dining, this region has several family-friendly dining options up its sleeve. Here are a few favourites:
- Booths By The Bridge, Neath – for pizza and a great outdoor setup.
- The Afan Tavern – perfect for a casual pub dinner
- Bella Ciao, Port Talbot – for Italian-inspired meals with a family vibe
- The Welsh House, Neath – a modern Welsh dining experience with a restaurant feel
More to explore
Here’s what’s on our list for next time:
- Aberavon Seafront – a long sandy beach with splash park, playground
- Argoed Walk, Afan Valley
- Banwen Meadows and woods
- Walking trails
Final thoughts: A brilliant base for family adventures
Whether you’re a family of seasoned cyclists, eager explorers, beach lovers, or an adventure-packed weekend away from Bristol, Neath Port Talbot offers a unique mix of natural beauty and outdoor activities for adrenaline-fuelled adventure and family fun.
With everything from forest trails and castles to beaches and bike parks, not to mention affordable places to eat and stay (and cheap drinks!), it’s the perfect base for families looking for a nature-rich break.
So next time you’re plotting your escape from Bristol, cross that big ol’ Severn bridge and head for the Dramatic Heart of Wales.
